Paris. September 2019. Fashion Week. Luxury and Créateur prêt-à-porter. Collections spring summer 2020.
During this week, I understood that fashion world will change radically. A consciousness will born, day after day. A new trend will supplant all the others : FASHION INCLUSIVE. It means, fashion will no more exclude anyone or anything. There will be suddenly room in this egocentric sector. The words „exclusive, limited, selective …“ will be out. We will prefer „Fashion for all“. Let me explain you when, where and how it all began…
Text & photos by Florence Julienne.
Full spectrum of greens, PVC bags covered with a multitude of fringes, like greenery slowly overgrowing architectural structures… From this first show in Paris, I understood that the awareness of the environment would be the major trend of summer 2020. WE’LL BE GREEN.
Two women walking together on the catwalk. Does it sound strange ? I felt bi… sexual… polar… in these exaggerated experimental pieces. High end finishing details. WE’LL BE BI.
From where I was placed, I could see the models scrolling from behind, as if Dior was turning his back on a certain idea of fashion. The hashtag #Plantingforthefuture reveals Dior & sustainability matters. Driven by this conviction and by the love of gardens, this new Dior collection evokes — through motifs and embroideries, brilliance and texture of raffia — lush imaginary vegetation. The message was clear. WE’LL BE RESPONSABLE.
We travelled through time and space, in search of unique beauty. Asymmetric draping and ruffles, deconstructed details on knitted maxi-dress were like waves surrounding the body… One of the model was pregnant. It makes me think we are building the future. WE ARE THE FUTURE.
The event called DYSMORPHIA concluded with a „die-in“ between political activists, a form of non-violent protest. Reflection on themes of vanity destruction and the beauty of nature. Disapointment with humanty. Is humanity to old to escape ITS destiny ? ARE WE TOO OLD?
This collection is dedicated to Madame C, the famous director of the call girl agency, and these liberated girls and boys who, for a few five hundred franc notes, contributed to the splendour of France. Such a strange message… How long are we going to prostitute ourselves for money. WE ARE ALL PROTISTUTED.
“All things bright and beautiful. All creatures great and small. All things wise and wonderful. The Lord God made them all.” An army of dreamers that defy dogma and definition. A family that bonds beyond the biological. A celebration of the extraordinary. The spirit of a tribe. Smiley Word. Spirit of the traditional Paris Cabaret shows. Don’t be shy… WE ARE FREAKS.
The runway show is a pure manifesto of what the brand stands for:versatility for individual expression. Glenn Martens, master of disruption, is painting the portrait of multi-faceted woman, inventing his own aesthetic language that he likes to reinterpret and twist. This is what fashion spring summer 2020 is about. #beyou. WE ARE UNIQUE.
Feminity. Light colors. Fragility. Purety. Inspired by „Aurora Borealis“ and „Prismatic“ light installations, made by the New York-based architecture studio Hou De Sousa, Nadya Dzyak layers and mixes colors, creating the effect of weightless fading and blending that hints at twilight and sunset hues in the sky. WE’ll BE ROMANTICS.
It all starts from a simple idea of bringing people from different régions and generations together, different as they are, forming cercles and holding hands, as we all share this joy intrinsic to who we are that is not nound by space and time. A show full of fun, dance, surprises. An ode to childish joy. The fact is : as human beings, WE COULD BE COOL.
Let’s be the belles of the ball. Let’s wear our sleeves as long as our nights… Let’s grasp at colour, frivolity, and eccentricity. Reclaim the overtly feminine, the awkward and the glamorous Let’s make the excessive accessible. Let’s learn as we go along, Let’s rebel and become… married with a girl. Such a good program! WE ARE FREE.
Waiting for the new artistic director, Escada, a brand renowned for its bold use of colour, choose the red. With this red heart, Escada expresses the need of love 2020. WE ALL NEED LOVE.
New Fashion Uniforms. Seamless Tailoring. New shape for suits. Ultra-large garment with pleats. Pillow Parka. Wearable Ballroom dresses. Balenciaga is playing with beauty standards. It does not care of good or bad taste. It differs from all other fashion proposals by its ability to make us reject, then to see, accept, even buy the unthinkable. But fashion is precisely the improbable! WE’LL BE OPEN MINDED.
Returning to the origins gives rise to a high society that expresses itself through a new Belle Époque, as if in tribute to that vivacious time when Paris was pure enchantment. To focus on this period, Louis Vuitton invites the artist Sophie appears onscreen in an extended version of „It’s Okay to Cry“. In Paper magazine, Sophie said : „coming out as trans is ultimately a reclamation of your identity. It means there’s no longer an expectation based on the body you were born into, or how your life should play out and how it should end.“ WE’LL BE TRANSGENDERS.
Webeditor // @june.kre